So, the three ally top panels that constitute the transmission tunnel are next for the carbon fibre, aramad, flat-panel treatment. One is riveted on, and two are bolted into nutserts. I need to go around the nutserts and put a tiny tack in place to remove the risk of them spinning, but that’s another job before the chassis goes off.

In order to give really good impact resistance from inside the tunnel and not risk the panel should there be a stone chip or other underneath, I’ve added two layers of aramid. If I weren’t to be manufacturing composite prop-catchers as well, I would feel secure in just using the two layers of aramid and the other parts of the composite to do the job.

Here is the layup is aramid, aramid, eglass (to add a little flexibility), carbon, carbon for stiffness and pretty facing bling. The pictures follow, before the price breakdown.

Here you can see it all laid out with the aramid on top of the e-glass. I have decided to lay out an entire panel rather than three separate panels, or one panel just the right size, which would have created unnecessary offcuts. I at least have some finished offcuts of a good size that can be reused or sold on ebay.

Here we are, fully bagged up and ready to go. The panel is more or less the size of the double-glazing unit I use so there’s no need to pleat the bag – envelope bagging will be fine and for my level of technique it’s quicker as well. The downside is you use a little more resin because the resin will run to all the corners of the bag.

Now we’re fully infused, and you can see that the e-glass more or less vanishes. You can see the gaps around the aramid panels. If I were to go for a consistent aramid layer, then you’d get the fluffy edges when the panels were cut which would be visible in the cockpit and not meet the goal of being a cosmetic panel. As such, I’ve allowed a 15mm boundary around each panel for cutting. This is also the width of the metal that it’s mounting onto and means the aramid should fully sit in the exposed space and fill it completely.

And … Disaster … I didn’t spot a couple of stray threads on the panel before I laid it out and they’re now set in there for good. There’s no recovering this panel without making a new panel to bond on top. There’s nothing here that affects the strength with the stray thread, but I will make up a repair panel. Arses.

Ouch – I’m £45 in, and can’t use the panels from a cosmetic.sense. I’ll need to make a repair panel.

In order to cost the fina

Here’s another blog by a nice chap called Alan, who’s rebuilding his Fury – small world. It looks like we have similar views on what constitutes a good build (such as not drilling a bazillion holes in the chassis).

Here it is: www.projectfisher.co.uk

So, I am going to try and sell my old pinto outfit again, so I started going through all the things I had carefully boxed up, including the alternator. I had placed the alternator in a plastic storage box (with a clickable sealable lid) with some other bits. One of the bits was a steel door hinge.

Needless to say, the hinge and alternator have been cosying up and touching each other in inappropriate ways. The end result is galvanic corrosion. What a mess. The alternator is so buggered the pulley won’t even turn. However, it did get me thinking that I could make carbon fibre door hinges in the future … go to be lighter.

Today, campers, I’m off to the garage to tidy up the winter detritus. This will involve:

1. making good coffee
2. appropriate selection of music for the day
3. convincing my 14 year old teenage son that this has to be done before we start on the new engine build
4. trying to sell my old pinto race engine as an outfit again, rather than in pieces
5. moving things that were wall mounted onto other walls
6. a trip to the DIY store when I realise I don’t have wall plugs
7. serious scratching of head when I have more ambition than wall space tidyness
8. manliness when I GO TO THE TIP
9. booze
10. powerwashing everything down
11. cleanliness

Here is the new 3d design for the fuel tank. If you click the image you can download the 3d pdf of the tank that will allow you to rotate it.

What’s missing in the image is the internal flap gates between the bottom fuel pump holder and the tunnel riser, as well as the tunnel riser and the top part of the tank. I haven’t decided if i’m going to internally baffle the top of the tank left to right, of just add the hollow golf balls or foam. I have options.

I’ve designed it in 1.5mm stainless which means the total weight is 10kg. It’s not the lightest but it does weigh the same as an elise aftermarket tank. I’ve built in as many folds as possible to cut down on the welding.

I might make the tank and then use it as a mold for a carbon tank instead.

So, I’ve added rule 26 -Choose the right fuel.

I’m especially pleased with it. Go and have a look.

Wow – Dario Margutti can drive. There are one or two clenching moments here.

Well, spin my nipple nuts and send me to Alaska!

I’ve done the power-to-weight calculation (it’s an addy-up and then a divide) for the new engine, other bits, etc. and I should be seeing 383 bhp/tonne.

Assumptions:

1. I get those carbon-kevlar seats I’m after,
2. The weight-loss changing from pinto to duratec is 40kg. I haven’t managed to weigh either engine yet, but the going rate seems to be 50kg.
3. the engine makes 215bhp, but I’ve bought all the parts from one of the most reputable teams in the business and I’ve stuck with them so I don’t end up with mis-matched components.

I’m listing my roll-over hoops for sale, so am putting a photo up here for James to see; he may wish to buy.

The hoop needs to mount to the top turret and underneath. They also need to go into the chassis from underneath, so when you put them in they have to go in early and they’re in for good.