Fitting an Electric Handbrake #1

This is going to be an interesting set of posts taking you through  how I fitted my electric handbrake. It’s not been an easy ride (ahem).

In this post, I debated the various options I was thinking about whilst wanting to move away from the conventional handbrake solutions for an actuator with control. I went for the Speedway Motors E-Stop kit and I must say, Speedway were a very efficient outfit to order from. Their international sales team were quick to confirm the international shipping rules with me, and it arrived 5 days later, which is excellent from the States. HM Customs then stuck me in the eye for £90 duty though. I wasn’t pleased about this.

Following is a 3 minute video they’ve done which shows how it fits and how it works. The only major difference between their video and my circumstances is that this shows the e-Stop kit working on a gert big american chassis, and I’m going to squeeze it into my tiny Fury.

5 thoughts on “Fitting an Electric Handbrake #1

    • If you include the optional bracket for separating the cables (wot I bought) then it’s 2.3kg. I haven’t yet weighed the old handbrake and associated gubbins that are being thrown away. I’m hoping I get away with evens.

      • If it the actuator was a bit cheaper I might have considered it an option. It gives you many more options for packaging for example there is no need for it to be in the transmission tunnel.

  1. I have to admit, I had to close my eyes when I hit “buy” an the taxman butt-fucking me with a cactus for the next £90 was also painful. I did have a long think about just buying an actuator and going with that, but the E-Stop has a control box which does most of the switching and is current sensing (apparently). I thought that having the whole lot controlled rather than having to work that out for myself was worth the sting.

    From a packaging perspective, it’s totally brilliant though – right down low.

  2. I suppose it depends on your electric and electronic knowledge skills – I know it’s just an actuator, with a simple microcontroller and a bit of code to manage current sensing. You could equally do it with an actuator that gives a positional feedback and calibrate it yourself – it only needs (at most) 50mm of travel. I did see actuators on ebay that could pull 600Nm for less than £100. I decided (for once) to at least go off the shelf to save some time.

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