The Engine Mount is in

The mount is in, trimmed and holds the weight well. It also has been cured, so there should be no issue with the heat from the engine softening the resin. I am having some custom fasteners made to secure the mount to the aramid chassis – similar to these  but to my own dimensions and specification of metal. I can then hard mount the engine mount to the chassis. I’ll also need to make a torque-control bar that attaches to the engine and stops it yawing when it spins up.

2 thoughts on “The Engine Mount is in

  1. Hard Mounted? You’re brave!

    I looked in to doing this and was advised against it by quite a few people. I was told it’s ok for a race car, but for a road car (which I tour to France and Spain) it would be too much.

    The idea was to have a plate across the engine end of the tunnel and sandwich it between the gearbox and bellhousing. This would close off the bottom of the tunnel and keep the existing ground clearance. The bike engine cars have this bar in place at the bottom as it’s only a prop with sails over.

    Using a long input shaft would get over the issue of the thickness of the plate.

    I’m interested to see how this woks out.

    • I have to admit, it’s new ground for me. A friend who is really successful racing a westfield has everything hard mounted. I had mine lightened and balanced, so I hope that helps a bit.

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