4 layers of 450gsm, and whatever tooling resin Nord produce. I’ve almost finished now, but calculate I need about 3kg more resin than I have, so have stopped. It was a bummer because I had enough time to get totally done. Better order another 25kg
It has a much lower styrene content than laminating resin as well, which is nice. I catalysed it at 1% and that was enough. For mixing 1kg the brush was just starting to drag as the pot was finishing.
I expected a harsher exotherm though. But puzzled at that. I will post cure the mould though.
Not a lot to see really. 4 layers of 450 down. Rollered in with a bristle roller, and a heater in there on low to be sure the exotherm kicks in at these temps and 1% catalyst.
This is the first time I’ve used mould making resin and it’s odd stuff. Very gloopy. It also dissolves the binder brilliantly.
So, here is my 10″ open topped steering wheel, which has been drilled and counter sunk for a 3 bolt quick release mechanism.
It’s in good condition – make me an offer.
I have four of these beauties, that I used to run my fury on, when it was on wired wheels. It looked great. The wheels and spinners were sold together, but I need to sell these. The engineering is excellent and apart from needing a brush, they’re in great condition.
So, I have the original alternator from my duratec, and a denso from a honda which is smaller and lighter, and comes with brackets that should fit a duratec. I bought it in good faith from a chap on the locust builders forum, so if there are any issues with either alternator, I will refund you.
So, there’s 4 of these, and they’ve done less than 2000 miles, and have between 5.5mm and 6mm of tread. they’re barely scrubbed in. Two of the wheels have been scuffed, and two are in great condition.
The tyres are Toyo Proxes T1-S, which is the stickiest compound tyre I could have in class 5C hill-climbing. These darlings cost me over £400 with the tyres, so make me an offer.
The good wheels look like this:
And the scuffed wheel number 1 loos like this. These are real up-close shots so you know there’s nothing to hide, but they look fine from a normal distance.
and the second looks like this where it’s had a little gravel rash:
right then. time to turn this huge amount of gelcoat into a mould. First stage is to get down the first thin coupling coat.
First spraying of the gel-coat below, and PVA above. I will let this lot dry off and then spray the second coat tonight. The second coat will be white, so u can be sure I have good coverage. Mound making tomorrow.
This is a sample stock of the cloth I’m going to use in the final tub.i’ve waited now and I’m going to wait again after I have infused and peeled it out so that I can understand just how much redding it up salt. This stack is 200 mm X 200 mm Square.
I will feed the approximate dye mentions of the top into my CAD package to get the square service area and then do some addy ups and divides which will tell me how much the stack ought to weigh.
When trying to overspray the PVA with a very dilute solution, we find it fish-eyes and no amount of brush-work puts it right.
Peel it off, wash it off, and start again
I could have gone for leaving the matte finish from the original PVA I laid down but then that would have negated all the benefits of using the really nice shiny plastic. Only option is to clean it all off and start again. If I was to go with a matte finish, it would mean lots of time spent polishing parts rather than letting the part material do the work for me.